the muddy hyena got stuck in the mud

Many apologies to the Muddy Hyena readers for my lack of posts over the last couple of months. As you'll read below, my laptop computer was stolen immediately upon arrival in Capetown and I was stuck with only limited e-mail access at internet cafes. I did occasionally find time to send a quick e-mail to my pen pal list and I've cut and pasted them in below with some photos from the trip so that you'll have some sense of what I've been up to over the last couple of months of travel. I'm back in the states until right after graduation in May and then it's back to Botswana for summer break. More stories to come soon.


Tuesday, February 23, 2010 – bummer

Sorry about the last empty e-mail. For reasons I'll explain below, I am at an internet cafe and trying to use Furman's horrible web interface to send an e-mail.

I wanted to let you know that we've had a bit of an unfortunate incident on the study away trip. After arriving in Capetown this morning we arrived at the St. Paul's guest house and in the process of settling into rooms, getting oriented and then having lunch, someone forgot to close the front gate. As such, during lunch, it seems that someone wandered into the guest house, up to the second floor, into my bedroom and took my laptop computer and a bunch of cash out of my back pack. Nothing else appears to have been stolen from the house or the other students. The police were called and a report was filed but the likelihood of recovering any of it is slim.

The cash and laptop are less of a big deal than the data lost on the laptop...photos from our trip to Mozambique, all my meticulous accounting of the budget stuff for the trip (every night I sit down and log all the money we've spent...that's every night for three weeks...gone!), the exam I made for next week, photos from this trip, etc, etc. Basically all the work I've done since mid-December. Ugh!

Good news is... no one was hurt, passports, IDs, credit cards are secure. I'm just feeling a little violated and wounded right now. And...I miss my tiny computer. I sent the students off to visit the slave lodge with the Center for Global Education Facilitator, cried in my room for a bit, but I'm back now. Just a bummer...that's all.
Thought I'd let you know...
Kristy

Friday, February 26, 2010 – ahhh thanks!

A quick note to express my heartfelt thanks for all the support I've received from all of you regarding the recent theft of my laptop and cash. I have to say, I felt "virtually" hugged. Very comforting! I really appreciated all your advice and sympathy.

Once I recovered from the shock, I've managed to regroup pretty quickly. The loss of two months of work (and photos) is pretty sad but in the greater scheme of things as one of you mentioned...anything that can be replaced with a check is not really that big of a loss. I agree. It could have been much worse.

Despite the crime, Capetown is still one of my favorite cities. Went out to Robben Island this morning -- always interesting to see where Nelson Mandela spent 27 years of his life in prison and to be reminded of his tremendous capacity to forgive. This afternoon it was up to the top of Table Mountain for one of the most stunning views of any city I've ever seen. Overlooking the ocean and city is breath-taking. As one of the most bio-diverse areas in the world in terms of flora the walk around the top is amazing (reported there are 1500 species of plants up there -- I wish I was a botanist).

Tonight we are off to dinner and the theater. Tomorrow to Cape Point where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. We've have a lecture from a very inspiring Bishop and a picnic lunch with penguins. Who could ask for more?
Hope you all are well.
Cheers,
Kristy


Wednesday, March 3, 2010 – safe (but delayed) arrival in Namibia

We arrived safely in Windhoek, Namibia yesterday. Had a two hour delay on our 8 am flight (which made our 5:00 AM wake up unnecessary -ugh!) but otherwise everything is fine. We settled into our guest house, went out to Megameno orphanage to play with the kids (it is amazing to see how well they are doing with just a bit of financial support from Furman and a few others), had a lecturer give us an overview of the history, politics and economics of Namibia, ate some dinner and crashed.

Today the students are out on an activity called "Katuratura quest" learning about one of the township areas and this afternoon we'll hear from a speaker from USAID and have some class sessions for student presentations.

In short, all is well in Namibia (except for the lack of hot water in my shower this morning but "this is Africa" so not too surprising).
Take care,
Kristy

Tuesday, March 9, 2010 – Greetings from Outjo!

A quick greeting from Outjo in Northern Namibia (which is basically in the middle of nowhere but has a very nice German bakery where we just ate lunch - remember Namiba was formerly a German colony).

I had a nice weekend with Paul while the students were on their urban home stays. He drove 8 hours from Maun (one way) to come see me and it was nice to catch up, eat some nice dinners, see a couple movies and be 20 students lighter for a few days.

We are now off to Khorixas where students will do their rural home stays for three nights. They will be living in clay/dung rondovels (round huts) with no running water or electricity. Their daily activities will include herding goats, milking cows, riding in donkey carts, etc. We've already had our first lesson on peeing without a toilet on the side of the road. All the girls line up to make a “human wall” for some privacy. All good stuff and nice prep for Botswana.

From here we head to Swakopmund on the coast.
The adventure continues.
Kristy


Monday, March 15, 2010 – goat slaughter, a horse name Fury and a falling down drunk

Well, we've had a nice time in Namibia. The students' home stays in the rural north were an overwhelming success. For many of them it is the first time they've ever lived in such rustic circumstances (no running water or electricity and a "pit latrine" at best but for many just a good bush to squat behind to do their business). The land is Khorixas is very dry and barren with lots of rock so not a lot of room for growing anything, except livestock. One group participated in the slaughtering of a goat while another learned that the phrase "running around like a chicken with your head cut off" is a rather literal expression. I told them that at least they knew the meat was fresh (although perhaps not by the third day with no refrigeration. I spent five hours one of the days visiting each of the homes to make sure all of my "learners" (that's what they call students here) were safe and happy (and well hydrated - it is pretty hot). The rest of the time I spent grading their exams (I would have rather been slaughtering a goat!).

The area we were in has a population that speaks a language with many clicks (in fact 4 different clicks). And as the only white person in the restaurant for lunch one day, I ate my Greek salad (which only had carrots and cucumbers in it...not even any lettuce. I'm not sure what made it Greek?), surrounded by the clicks and clucks of a foreign land. It was bizarre. I also had a conversation with a woman who told me how she was so worried about her young child because he was "clickless" up until he was three years old. She actually took him to the doctors. I'm trying to imagine that conversation taking place in the U.S. Ha!

We had a nice day off yesterday. Shopped at the market (my haggling skills are improving as most of what I bought was half the price they initially quoted), having some time to grade some papers and going for a sunset horseback ride with four other students. It was quite comical as they assigned horses...the most mild horse to the most scared and inexperienced student. Somehow the students had gotten it in their heads that I was an "experienced" rider. As such, the people at the horse farm were going to put me on the "most difficult" horse until I balked and explained that my horse riding experience took place longer ago than when the students I was with were born (hence, if they had EVER ridden a horse, they had more recent experience than me!). One of the students who rides regularly volunteered to take that horse but I'm not sure I ended up with a better deal.

I got the tallest horse which meant dismounting resulted with my launching myself off of this ginormous beast and finishing with my hands way above my head still on the saddle. Additionally, his name was "Fury" which is never a good sign and he certainly had a mind of his own. He didn't want to be number 3 so he made his way past number 2 in the line. He liked to smell and eat everything which meant he was constantly bending way down to get things causing me to have to lean way over to keep the reigns. And then, they failed to tell me that he likes to move rather quickly downhill so the first sand dune we went down was an adventure! Good news is that we made it back fine and the views of the dunes were stunning. We even saw a herd of 20 or so springbok while we were out there. (PS: I learned that I ride a horse left-handed, with the reigns in my left hand, I guess I have my left handed sister to thank for that one. Thanks Kelley!).

Last night I dragged my colleague Erin to The Tug, one of my favorite restaurants in Swakopmund. We had a wonderful time until a man who was "falling down drunk" (literally) almost landed on top of her but fortunately he was short and cleared her chair when he landed. We relocated and enjoy the rest of our meal.

Well today we head off for our final day of programming in Swakopmund (township tour, hospital visit - the one where Angelina Jolie had her baby, and lunch at an after school program). We make the long drive to Windhoek tomorrow with a stop at Rossing Uranium Mine on the way. Wednesday we are off to Botswana. The group is mixed in their enthusiasm for the final leg of the trip. Some are a bit a worried about spending two weeks in tents, others are thrilled!

Not sure when I can write again but I'll be thinking about you and I'll send an update when we get to internet access.
More soon.
Kristy

Wednesday, March 31, 2010 – in the air again

In the air again...just can't wait to be in the air again (just like Willy Nelson's "on the road again" song).

Well my nine weeks of travel with twenty Furman students is quickly drawing to an end. We've had our ups and downs with the theft of my laptop and some cash in Capetown and two purses snatched in Durban, a gastrointestinal bug that had half my group running to the toilet for 48 hours, some grumbling about not enough "free time" and lack of regular internet access but overall it has been a successful trip. I have handled my role as "Mama Maher" (what the students have come to call me) much better than last year and have tried to not let the 24 hour/day, 7 days/week reality of directing a study away program grate on my nerves. My life changes quite a bit with the addition of 20 "children" I am now responsible for. Very early on I taught them the mantra of "sunscreen, water, toilet paper and snacks" so there were far fewer annoying requests for things all good travelers should have on them. They have learned well.

We heard many engaging speakers, went to lots of revealing sight visits, saws some of the most well known monuments and museums of the area and traveled to some of the most beautiful locations of South Africa, Namibia and Botswana. Some of the highlights of the trip for me this time included learning about the plight of the Zimbabwean refugees at the Central Methodist Church in Johannesburg, hiking with 360 degree panoramic views of the Drakensburg Mountains in Giant's Castle, riding a horse through the dunes of the Namib Desert at sunset, watching the children laugh and play at Megameno orphanage in Namibia reaping the benefits of the donations raised by former Furman students who have spent time with the kids in the past. Our last night at Nxai Pan we even had a male lion walk across the pan as Paul and I watched him with the night vision goggles hoping none of the students would choose that time to unzip their tent and get out and pee!! None of them did and they all now have quite an exciting story to tell their friends and family.

Currently I'm giving the second exam for my Global Health Inequalities course. We have been reading a book called the Invisible Cure that examines the underlying cultural norms contributing to the high rates of HIV/AIDS in Southern Africa. The exam also covers several student presentations on TB and Malaria and a variety of funding organizations including The Global Fund to Fight AIDS, TB and Malaria, PEPFAR - the President's Emergency Plan for AIDS Relief and the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation. They are all feverishly writing as I type.

Once the exam is done we will head off on a river cruise to Paul and my house on the ostrich farm for a pizza party and star show (should the weather cooperate). Tomorrow morning they will visit a cultural village, do their last bit of shopping for gifts, eat lunch at the French Connection and fly out of Maun at 2:30 PM (assuming everything is on time, "hold thumbs" as they say here, the Batswana version of cross your fingers). Our seventeen hour Johannesburg to Atlanta flight leaves around 8:30 PM arriving at 7 AM on Friday morning. We should be back in Greenville by 11 AM on Friday.

Our learning continues in April with three more weeks of classes and lots of opportunities to continue discussing the many challenging topics that have been raised during our travels. What are the social, economic and historical factors that contribute to poverty? What impact does inequality have on the community as a whole? What responsibility do those of us in "the West" have towards "the rest"? What will we do with all the information we have learned through this travel study? How will it inform career choices? Daily purchasing patterns? Types of volunteerism and activism? Voting habits?

So much to think about while we're "in the air" and my hope is that it impacts their lives for a very long time. If that happens, even for some, than all the time and effort that goes into planning and orchestrating a trip like this will be worth it!

On that note, I'm off. Looking forward to catching up with many of you when I return.
Cheers,
Kristy

Saturday, April 3, 2010 – back in town

Just wanted to let you know that I've made it back in one piece. Arrived yesterday around lunch time. I worried a bit that we might not get out of Botswana as it was pouring down with rain Thursday morning but cleared by the time we needed to fly in the afternoon. Unfortunately there was no electricity at the Maun airport (TIA - this is Africa!) so they couldn't check our bags all the way through so we had to clear customs in Johannesburg, re-entry South Africa via passport control and check in at the Delta counter for the international flight. It was not impossible but inconvenient.

By the time we did this and went through security we only had about 15 minutes until we boarded the plane. Unfortunately one of the students misunderstood the directions and thought we were boarding at 8:20 PM instead of leaving then. It was a bit of a panic when two students informed me that one student wasn't on the plane just as the airline was announcing her name. I rushed to the door and tried to explain that she was in my group and could I go look for her back in the terminal only to be told if I left the plane I would be forfeiting my ticket (~$2000 value!). Fortunately, she walked in shortly thereafter apologizing for her confusion. That was a close one.

We landed in Atlanta and just as I was breathing a sigh of relief that I had gotten them all back safely on American soil we ran into a glitch due to some misinformation on the part of my travel agent. He had informed me that for those of the students who didn't want to return to Greenville but rather to go on to other flights home for Easter or meet their families in the airport they could simply walk out with their luggage after they cleared customs. NOT! In Atlanta you only have 2 options once you clear customs, put your bag back on the flight transfer conveyer belt (for those of us going to GSP) or on a belt to baggage claim for those terminating in Atlanta. Unfortunately, since our bags were ticketed to GSP those interested in leaving in Atlanta couldn't use the latter option. After trying to negotiate with an impossible (read EVIL) red jacketed attendant from Delta airlines who was less then helpful, I called my travel agent's cell, waking him up but he failed to make any headway with her either. According to Ms. Evil, our only option was to pay a $250 fine for not getting on the last leg of our trip. She explained that Delta would be "losing money" - which of course makes no sense, we had already paid for the full fare, who cares if we don't get on the plane but she was unrelenting.

One paid the $250, one sweet talked her way to making an exception because her flight home was a Delta flight. Another had been ticketed to her proper final destination in Johannesburg (not sure how that happened?). Two living in Atlanta put their bags on the transfer flight conveyer belt (one of which made it to GSP without him, who knows where the other one is?).Two more removed all the greater than 3 oz. liquids from their luggage into a box which flew to GSP without them (I picked it up) and squeezed their giant suitcases through the security check that is necessary to leave the international area (we had some very nice security checkers there who were very understanding). Ms. Evil was kind of a rude return to America...thanks so much for your help and understanding (NOT!). So glad to be home again...

...but actually I am. Shelby was very happy to see me (instantly forgiving me for my 3 1/2 month absence) and I had sushi for dinner and after sleeping from 9:30 PM until 8 AM this morning...honey nut cheerios for breakfast, ahhh it's good to be home. Now I'm enjoying listening to NPR on a Saturday morning and trying to unpack and sift through all this mail. Enjoying most opening Christmas cards on Easter weekend.

Would love to see or hear from you all when you get a chance.
Hope you have a peaceful Easter weekend.
Cheers,
Kristy