Roaring Lions, Bushmen Encounters and a Polka?!

Giraffe in an African sunset

Sitting around the fire after dinner we hear the awe inspiring roar of the Kalahari lion. We heard him the previous night as well signaling to his brother. One would call from behind our tent, the other off in the distance in front of our tent. It certainly is magical to be lying in bed listening to the call of lions. We learn from camp staff that these two males have recently pushed an aging male out of the territory and they are now the new kings in town. With the last call sounding mighty close to where we are seated, we grab the night vision binoculars and climb up to the elevated viewing point at Kalahari Plains Camp to see if we can get a better look at him crossing the pan in front of camp.

We had the fortunate opportunity to be in this stunning location in the middle of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve because Paul was asked to come and do some guide training about the Central Kalahari (where he spent his first two years in Botswana as a Bushmen Development Officer back in the early 1970s; not only does Paul love the CKGR but you'd be hard pressed to find many that know more about it than he does). We arrive on Sunday with the intention of starting training midday on Monday but a delay in the arrival of all the guides for training gives us a bit of free time and things kick into full gear on Tuesday. 

The Bushmen issue is a bit of a political hot potato in Botswana  (see Survival International for one point of view on this) with several court cases (against the Botswana government for the forced removal of the Bushmen and water rights) eventually won by the Bushmen. Paul is there to teach the guides a bit about his experiences with Bushmen specifically their hunting and gathering practices, cultural values and traditional life style. He also does some astronomy training and a star show.

Traditional Home in Bushmen Village

Some of this training is done via lectures and video (we watched an amazing video called “The Great Dance” that was produced in 2000) and others by hands on activities like a visit to a local Bushmen community and a walk with a Bushmen family that is employed by the lodge. While in the village Paul runs into his old friend Roy Sesana, a Bushmen working with these issues for years. He graciously speaks with us about the current state of affairs and then shows us around his area (e.g. his home, fields, and long fought for reverse osmosis water treatment machine and borehole donated by international donors).

Paul and Roy

Homemade Musical Instrument

Life seems simple yet difficult for the people living in the Kalahari. No running water, no electricity, no wifi, no cell service. Close multigenerational families, handmade musical instruments, beautiful landscapes and an escape from the modern world. It would not be politically wise for me to explore this issue at great length in a public forum like a blog, but suffice is to say, as with most things involving humans, culture and global influences, it’s as complicated as a polka at a traditional dance at an African lodge. 

That’s right… a polka! In addition to the typical Bushmen dancing that one might see at an African lodge, we actually saw a polka. While I’m not sure of the exact route from Central Europe to Botswana, apparently, there are areas of Botswana where people have polkaed for years. At camp this week there were also two dance instructors training the staff to polka and much of the week one could hear what sounded like carnival music emerging from the thorn bushes as they practiced. And, in my opinion, their practicing paid off! We watched a stunning African infused rendition of a polka. Humans, culture, and globalization…as I said, it’s complicated. But I like it that way. While people may want to offer simple statements about the Bushmen issue in Botswana, it is anything but simple.

Our tent at Kalahari Plains Camp

Luxury lodge living is something I suspect I could get used to. I love the fact that I leave for breakfast and come back to a made bed and room ready for the day with decorative pillows rearranged. Magic cleaning elves? When we go for dinner we come back to the bed turned down for the evening, mosquito net in place and wait for it…my favorite part…hot water bottles (which I call “bush babies” like the exceptionally cute tiny little primates with the big eyes) tucked in to help us stay warm through the cold Kalahari night. When I return to Maun, I go to eat breakfast and return to the bedroom only to find the bed still unmade. Sigh…

View from our tent

On our last day in camp, we are the only non-staff people around. I feel somewhat guilty about this but we enjoy it nonetheless. After eating a tasty breakfast we head off to Sunday Pan to go see what wildlife we can see. While we try to find the lions we have been hearing at night, we fail to do so. We do however see plenty of wildlife – gemsbok, giraffe, springbok, bat eared fox, jackal and an abundance of birdlife (including the ever present pale chanting goshawk).

Gemsbok

Gemsbok

Giraffe

Springbok at Sunday Pan

Jackal and Springbok at Sunday Pan

On our very last night, when I would have been completely satisfied if they had made us a packed dinner to go back to our tent with so they wouldn’t have to bother setting up the dinner buffet and our table, they pull out all the stops and set up a romantic dinner for two. Candles, wine, and more delicious food in line with what we’ve been eating all week – starters of homemade soup and bread, a buffet with many choices and a delicious “pudding” (or “dessert” as we would call it, remember “pudding” isn’t always pudding). If we do encounter that lion on the walk back to our tent, he will have a very filling “stuffed Americans” treat. But what a way to go...