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| Our vehicle at sundown, Deception Pan |
This is a
quote from NASA astronaut Buzz Aldrin as he followed Neil Armstrong onto the
moon’s surface. The same can be said for
the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR), one of our favorite places in
Botswana. The views take you as far as your eyes can see in every direction.
Sunsets and rainstorms are both equally spectacular. "Beautiful, beautiful. Magnificent desolation."
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| Paul's long shadow, CKGR |
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| Herd of springbok with looming storm |
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| Kalahari sunset |
Due to the
drought that has impacted much of Botswana for the last year, the animal
populations were much smaller than we have seen on past trips. Normally when driving
down into Deception Valley you come across green grasses similar to a golf
course teeming with wildlife. This time we gasped in shock at the dryness. Talk about desolation!
Isolated rains graced some areas (Tau Pan, Hoodia Pan) bringing much needed pools
of water and green grasses for the animals.
But no
matter what the conditions, the CKGR does not disappoint. One evening we are
treated to the site of a bat-eared fox family out for their evening dinner on
the pan. The little ones ran and frolicked as they search for bugs.
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| Frolicking bat-eared fox |
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| The entire bat-eared fox family out for dinner |
Kori bustards
strut their stuff while trying to attract a mate. Like the “cock of the walk”
they march with head crest flipped forward, tail feathers raised up like a
turkey and throat sack all puffed out. They boom a low guttural moan as they do
a dignified high-step. We were lucky enough to see a mating dance between two where
they bizarrely thrust their beaks into each other’s beak and circled around in
a coordinated “give and take” that resembled a tango. We also saw two puffed up
males in a face off, where the dominant one confronted the subordinate fellow
pushing him off from the area. The loser sulked off with his crest deflated and
tail down in a more typical non-mating posture.
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| Kori bustard in typical fashion |
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| Strutting male kori bustard trying to attract a mate |
We also
saw Kalahari classics like gemsbok and wildebeest (and some babies). Giraffe crossing
the pan and heading toward the trees at sunset. And my favorite – jackals. One
poor little guy was attempting to seek shade in the non-existent shadow of a
tiny barren bush. I just love their almond shaped eyes.
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| Gemsbok |
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| Wildebeest |
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| Giraffe (notice how dry the valley is...no grass!) |
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| Jackal seeking non-existent shade |
And we got
lucky... a group of three male lions as their daytime nap ended and
evening prowl began.
The
purpose of our recent trip was, however, a bit weightier than simply hanging
HATAB (Hotel and Tourism Association of Botswana) signs and spending a few days in the bush. We traveled with
the intent of spreading some of the ashes of two people dear to our hearts,
Paul’s brother Tom and my Furman colleague and friend, David Redburn. As we
made our way to three of our favorite locations in the CKGR we reflected on
their well-lived lives and the lessons we could take from them.
1. Live your life adventurously. Both Tom and David lived lives of
adventure. Tom and his wife Pat even traveled around the world TWICE! Saving
up, then quitting their jobs they embarked on two yearlong "around the world" trips. In addition to that they typically took at least one big trip a year often
to see their beloved European castles. We have traveled to both France and Greece
with them and Paul’s sisters Connie.
Taking public transportation and finding a room with a balcony view are
two of my favorite lessons learned from their years of world travel. David and
his wife Deb were avid boaters, first sailboats then motorboats they ventured
out to the high seas every summer and even sold their house and lived on a boat
for the first few years of their retirement.
2. Do
good work that you’re passionate about. At Furman University, David passionately taught his
students with a goal of sharing the sociological imagination, not just for a
grade but for a shift in life perspective. He was my closest colleague and
friend in the department from the time I came to Furman until his retirement. I
often thought of him as my “work husband” and things haven’t been the same
since he retired. Tom worked with
troubled youth for years and put the same level of passion into his retirement
“job” of running a local tennis center. After he passed, we had the opportunity
to meet many of his “tennis buddies” and friends. He touched so many lives with
his kind heart, Sheller sense of humor and quick wit. While I know less about his work
life, I’m sure he had as much impact in that realm as he did outside of it.
3. Love
your partner well.
When Paul and I first met and he asked me to marry him I sarcastically
replied, “Why should we marry? Do you know anyone
who is married that is truly happy?” To which he replied, “Yes, my brother Tom
and his wife Pat.” I came to learn that he was not wrong. Both Tom and David
had true partnerships with their spouses. As life carried on bringing with it
highs and lows and ultimately sickness, the strength of their partnerships
shined through and both Pat and Deb honored who their husbands were and cared
for them with great compassion to the end. This could not have been easy and I
respect both of these women so much for the grace, dignity and moments of humor
that that they brought to this process.
In the
end, both Tom and David’s lives were much shorter than anyone who knew and
loved them hoped they would be but they were lives truly well-lived. Rest in
Peace Tom and David. You will be missed.
