Safari Season 2012

As my time in Botswana is coming to a close, I wanted to reflect on this past safari season. We started out in May with the Furman group. As part of a May X program (a three week, two credit course) called “Botswana: Paradox and Profession”, the main question I wanted to address was, “Why does a country that has done everything “right” when it comes to HIV/AIDS still have the second highest rate in the world?”

As a medical sociologist, for the past 5 years, I have been reading everything I can and learning as much as possible about this topic. After three days of preparation on campus, 19 students, one faculty colleague and a staff person from the Office of International Education and Study Away and I headed off to Botswana for two weeks. We spent the first week in the capital, Gaborone, talking to an array of individuals and organizations about the topic of HIV/AIDS in Botswana.

We visited everyone from the US Embassy to the Center for Disease Control, Peace Corp and USAID to Harvard University’s labs and Baylor University’s Teen Club. We also had the opportunity to meet with some local organizations like BONELA – Botswana Network on Ethics, Law and HIV/AIDS, researchers like Bagele Chilisa at the University of Botswana and Unity Dow whose book, Saturday is for Funerals, we read. One of the most exciting moments occurred when one of the students asked Unity, “So you’ve written both fiction and non-fiction books, served as a High Court Judge, helped change laws to advocate for the rights of women…now what do you plan to do?” To which she responded, without missing a beat,  “I’m going to be the next President of Botswana.” We were impressed and she certainly would have the support of our group (if we could vote!). 

Group with Bagele Chilisa at University of Botswana

 

Group outside of Harvard Labs after our tour

Group with Unity Dow at her house in Udi

It was an action packed week of learning about HIV/AIDS and many of the US based outreach programs trying to help as well as getting the perspectives from locals about some of the most pressing issues. Students did a great job preparing us for these visits by doing research on the organizations/individuals while on campus and then doing presentations for the entire class the night before our visits. For the first time through, I think the program worked quite well.

Rhino at Khama Rhino Sanctuary

Our second week we spent in the bush seeing some of the beautiful animals and landscapes of Botswana and exploring questions of vocation and calling. We visited Khama Rhino Sanctuary, “bush” camped along the Boteti River (with an unexpected night of lion calls all around us!), and visited the Khwai River area before flying out of Maun and back to the States for a few final days of class to wrap things up (I stayed here, while my faculty colleague and staff from the Office of International Education and Study Away escorted the group safely back to the States). 

Group at Mokolodi Game Reserve, Gaborone

Dr. Nocks and group in front of game viewing vehicle

 

 

 

Ellies in the Khwai River

We had a quick turnaround for our second safari of the season and this one had a Furman tie as well. You might call this a “reunion tour” as a student from the 2007 trip (the trip I met Paul on) and her father came for a ten day safari. This was a “Best of Botswana” tour starting in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) and working our way up through Moremi Game Reserve, then onto Savuti and ultimately the Chobe River front with a day trip to Victoria Falls. This is really one of the best routes offered by Kalahari Skies as I think it gives you a taste of all that Botswana has to offer from desert to delta to river front.

Ellie playing in the Chobe River

Young ellie - thinks he's a tough guy!

Aardwolf in the Central Kalahari

We had a beautiful trip with seasonably nice weather for late May-early June. Days were pleasantly warm and evenings were not too frigid (it can get down to freezing at night during the winter!). We had some unique sightings (like a caracal and aardwolf in the Central Kalahari – both pretty rare to see) but unfortunately couldn’t find a lion to save our lives (despite our best efforts including over a 10-hour day of trying on their last day). I think I’ve talked about “lion anxiety” before and we definitely had it (that is the stress that builds up when you’ve been on safari for a few days and haven’t seen a lion and all you want to do is see a cat!!).

We also ran into a bit of mechanical difficulties when the central barring of one of the tires on the kitchen trailer blew out and we had to scramble to get it fixed. It’s called “making a plan” - Rush clients to river cruise so that we could search for parts. Put them up in a lodge so we could drive back to repair the trailer with what parts we could find. Switch day trip to Zimbabwe to see Victoria Falls to complete repair. It was a bit of madness but it all worked out. I ended up having to escort the clients to Zim (since Paul had to work on the trailer) and nearly had a heart attack as I watched them both clients fearlessly bungee jump off the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe (let’s be clear - NO, I WILL NEVER DO THAT!).

A classic African sunset keeps people coming back for more.

View from the Cliff Trail

Our third and final safari came at the end of June (after a quick trip to Copenhagen to meet Paul’s six month old grandson Arthur – who is, by the way, super cute!). We met an interesting couple who is spending their retirement traveling around the world. We had the opportunity to take them to Tsodilo Hills to look at some rock art. We hiked for two full days and were able to do the Cliff, Rhino and Lion trails. We had beautiful blue skies and clear nights with a full moon rising over the hills. Quite lovely! We also got to see the resident dog of Tsodilo Hills - last time we saw him he was pretty beat up so I was glad to see him in good shape. And he was glad to see us (and our leftovers). 

Lion painting, namesake of the Lion Trail

Moon Rise over the Male Hill

Resident Tsodilo Dog

Sadly, given the economy, that was all we had for safaris this season. While we were supposed to be out this week in the Central Kalahari with a Spanish group (one we had done for several years in a row), it didn’t “make” this year (the reality of all the international news you’re hearing about “bail outs” and “austerity measures”). We’ll head off one more time for a couple of star shows in the CKGR this weekend and then I fly back to the States on August 10.